Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Wrapping Up With a Bit O' Irish- Simplicity 1735

It's a chilly, rainy day here, and as I had nothing better to do (besides cleaning the house, and who really wants to do that?) I've nipped away at my stash just a bit more. The form this takes is Simplicity pattern number 1735, view A, the cape.

And this is the fabric and trim.

The white fleece with shamrocks I found at Walmart last summer for $1.00 a yard. So I bought all 8 yards that they had of it. The greener busier Paddy's Day themed fleece was bought at Joann's when the red tag section was marked 50% off, which made this fabric $3.00 a yard. Again, I bought all that they had, this time only 2 3/4 yards. Finally the fringe was the most expensive part at $4.99 a yard (need 5 yards).

First step is always the cutting. This job isn't as tedious as some other patterns as it only has one piece to it! 
I love this little pin dispenser! I found it at Hancock Fabrics, but I have seen them at JoAnn's as well. 

I still like to line up the fabric, folded edges together, and pin through all of the layers. Cutting is a bit difficult all at once, though, so I typically will cut the top layer first, and then the bottom when working with fleece. With this pattern, I will also note, that it is best to line up the "front edge" of the pattern, with the folded edges of the fabric, rather than the "center seam" edge. After making a few of these, I've just found that it uses slightly less fabric (1 1/2 yard vs the 1 5/8 the pattern calls for). It also just lays nicer with out having to refold the fabric. 

Once it's cut, line up and sew the darts. 

I sewed all of the white seams first, then switched thread and sewed the darker fabric.

I did consider removing the darts and just cutting the neck round. While this would save a sewing step, I like the way that the darts make the cape form to the shoulders. 

Next is the center back seam.

Now this is where I differ from the pattern. The pattern tells you to leave an opening in the center seam of the lining fabric for turning. Later, after turning, you'd whip stitch the opening closed. This is a fine technique if you only have one side to your cape, but I like to make them reversible, so I sew the whole seam on both pieces. 

Here's where the trim comes in. 

Sew the trim all the way around one side of the cape. Since this is white trim, I sewed it to the white fabric first. Start at the bottom edge of the center seam, and leave a tail of about an inch of the fringe (or piping or lace). This is to allow a flat finish. If you are using piping, cut out about an inch of the pipping filler. Sew the fringe around, and when you come to the last inch of meeting the start, fold the starting tail down towards the bottom (towards the inside of the machine) and then fold the ending inch down over the first in the same direction. Do this as an eased turn, not a 90* angle. Sew over the folded in pieces, and you should be back to where you started. 

Now, with right  sides together, sew the top fabric to the inside fabric. In this case, the green to the white. As I mentioned earlier, I sewed all of the white bits together first (this includes the fringe) and then switched threads and sewed all of the green bits. At this point, I changed the bobbin thread to the white, and left the needle thread with green. Test your machine settings before continuing this way. Because my tension was not set properly, I did not get the full white on bottom green on top that I had intended. What I ended up with was green on top and mostly white with freckles of green peaking out. I actually liked this and left things how it was, since the white fabric had green shamrocks, it worked. 

Anyway, sew the two capes together, right sides matching, all around the edge leaving a hole for turning. 

Then turn. Which puts us here. 

you can just see the folded over tails that I mention.

Now to close up that hole. You could simply whip stitch it closed, but I like to top stitch all the way round. This worked wonderfully and smoothly for the fringe, but was a bit difficult when I did the pattern with fur pipping, even with a zipper foot. Just something to consider when deciding to do the pattern the way the pattern states, or the way I have done it here. 

Once you've zipped around, you're done! I will say that one thing I like about the top stitching, is that it gives you a chance to fix issues where you may have missed the fringe edge or not sewn down at much as you wanted to. 

And the finished product. 

This one will stay in my personal collection. If, however, you would like one of your own, and don't wish to make it yourself, you can find my Etsy Shop here.

As of January 30th, 2013 I do not have one ready made in the shop, but I will update as soon as I do. In the mean time, please message me and I'll be happy to whip one up of your very own!

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